It was a little scary when the guy next to me is paddling out with a...HELMET on! What's up with that? Didn't know I needed protective equipment for this sport... It's not like snowboarding or race car driving!
However, I quickly got over this fear as I paddle out into the line up. Only thing was, I saw LOTs of REEF (read this a rocks). Not sure how to surf through this stuff...too used to beach breaks in Florida.
Well, soon after arriving in the line up, I catch my first wave. Wasn't sure what to expect with the feel of the new board...it's fast and loose. As a thruster longboard, I felt it was a little "racey", but I made it up for a shirt little ride. The ride wasn't the interesting part....it was the reef only 18 inches under the surface when I came off the board. Landed right on the lower part of my back hard on the rocks. OUCH! But of course I paddle back out into the line up and adjusted a little to the left where a few others guys were at.
The next wave was much better...rode it a while longer, but didn't fall off...
Let me tell you, knowing the reef is only a few inches away, adjusts your mental thinking on making the wave! For sure, you want to stay on top of the wave.
As I continued to reposition myself in the line up, I saw whales jumping out of the water a little further out to sea. WOW, what a site to see. Since MrsBlue was on surfer watch patrol this morning, I was hoping she saw the whales (something on her bucket list). I also, watched the sun come up out there in the line up...beautiful!
Well, time ran out for the session, so I wanted ONE more wave. No luck, so I paddled in. That's a little interesting as well. As you did in during paddling, my hands hit the reef...worried me a little with the fins of the board (would the drag, would I knock one of my glassed fins off on day one, what's the best way in, etc.) Were going through my mind.
What a way to start the day...surfing, whale watching and a sunrise! I think I could learn to like this place!!!!
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